The early days of British lager revealed

Its part of the lager myth that in the late 50s and 60s, lager consumption began the slow build up before exploding in the 70s and 80s. The arrival of homegrown lagers Harp and Skol in the early 6os is one of the big events. But there were also a growing number of regional breweries either brewing their own lagers or under licence from continental brewers.

And thanks to Ron Pattinson’s Summer of Lager and extensive research into Whitbread’s brewing records there’s now some more information about what went on…

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Anglo and Bavarian in name, but what about the beer?

The Anglo-Bavarian brewery opened in 1864. It had the right name but did it brew lager?

The Anglo-Bavarian brewery opened in 1864. It had the right name but did it brew lager?

One of the more controversial UK lager myths is who brewed the first lager. Some maintain it was the Anglo Bavarian brewing company in Shepton Mallett, a company that specially imported a Bavarian brewmaster to do the necessary for them.

Whether he did or not is still uncertain, but by January 1870 an advertisement in the Gloucester Journal read:

Anglo-Bavarian Ales – The Anglo-Bavarian Brewery Company are now prepared to deliver these ales which possess all the essential properties of the highest class ales of Bavaria and Burton on Trent. Prices: India Pale Ale 1s.6d. per gallon. Mild Ales 1s.2d. 1s.4d 1s.6d per gallon. Strong Ales 1s.8d. 2s. per gallon. The Amber Ale. Brewed especially for family use and supplied in kilderkins 18 gallons 21s. and firkins 9 gallons 11s. Agent C.F. Cooksey, 12 Eastgate Street, Gloucester.

There has been some suggestion that the Amber Ale was the recipient of the Bavarian influence, but apart from newspaper cuttings, little is known about the beer. What little is known is tucked away in the official history of the brewery “The Anglo” by local Somerset author Fred Davis, which I was lucky enough to find in the local Martins’ Newsagent (thanks to a tip from local historian Alan Stone). I was on a flying visit to Shepton Mallett to pick up the book so I only had a quick look at the brewery itself – still an impressive building though.

Whether the brewery brewed lager or just used Bavarian know how to produce a better quality beer is unknown. The brewery did become known as a technical innovator and in 1873 won a medal at the Vienna World Fair for the quality of its bottled Amber Ale – one of only two English beers that survived the trip. (Compare that with Carlsberg’s beer that was sent half  way around the world before arriving in Vienna, to be pronounced excellent).

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There’s always a beer connection

Lager from Carlsberg was bottled in Fjerritslev

Lager from Carlsberg was bottled in Fjerritslev

Beer follows you everywhere once you’ve started to take an interest, and the past week’s holiday in Northern Jutland (Fjerritslev to be precise) was no exception.
It didn’t take me long to spot that Fjerritslev has a nicely preserved brewery museum. The brewery was opened in 1887 by Peder Kjeldgaard and was run after his death by first his widow and then his daughter until 1982.
Alongside its own beer, P Kjeldgaard also bottled for Carlsberg from 1885 to 1903. It was common practice in those days to ship the beer to the provinces in large oak casks to be bottled by local firms. Often the name of the bottlers shared the label with Carlsberg.
The Danish road system wasn’t so well developed at that time and transport by tramp steamer was the fastest and easiest way to get goods around the country.
I’m kicking myself now that I didn’t get to see the brewery, but looking through the information in the former farmhouse we were staying in I discovered that Peder Kjelgaard had grown up there.

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